Cash for Junk Cars
We pay cash for junk cars in any condition — running or not, wrecked, flooded, seized, stripped, or sitting on a lawn for six years. Tell us what you've got, get an offer, and if you take it we tow it free and pay you when we collect it.
That's the whole service. The rest of this page covers what your car is likely worth, what paperwork you'll need, and how the process actually runs, because those are the three things people want answered before they hand over a vehicle.
- Running or not — wrecked, flooded, seized or sitting for years
- Free towing, included in every offer
- Paid at pickup, when we collect it
Free Junk Car Offer
Takes 90 seconds · No obligation
No spam · We never sell your details
How much cash can you get for a junk car?
Most junk cars sell for somewhere between low three figures and low four figures. That's a wide band because a junk car's value isn't really about the car as transportation — it's about what can be recovered from it. Four things drive the number.
The catalytic converter is frequently the single most valuable component on a scrapped vehicle. Converters vary enormously by make and model, which is why two similar-looking cars can get very different offers.
Reusable parts come next. A common model with steady collision-repair demand is worth more than an obscure one of identical weight, because dismantlers can actually sell the doors, panels, transmission and electronics.
Scrap metal prices set the floor under every offer. Ferrous and non-ferrous scrap markets move constantly, and a heavier vehicle carries more metal. The per-ton rates for your state are in the table below, and how scrap value is worked out explains what sits on top of them.
Condition and completeness round it out. Not whether it runs so much as whether it's intact. A car missing its converter, wheels, battery or major panels is worth noticeably less.
Current Scrap Rates by State
Per-ton rates for complete vehicles, updated monthly. If an offer you have been given is far below what your state supports, it is worth asking why.
| State | Per ton | Vs. national |
|---|---|---|
| California | $190–$200 | Above average |
| Michigan | $185–$195 | Above average |
| Illinois | $180–$190 | Above average |
| New York | $180–$190 | Above average |
| New Jersey | $180–$190 | Above average |
| Ohio | $175–$185 | Above average |
| Indiana | $175–$185 | Above average |
| Pennsylvania | $175–$185 | Above average |
| Massachusetts | $175–$185 | Above average |
| Connecticut | $175–$185 | Above average |
| Wisconsin | $170–$180 | Above average |
| Maryland | $170–$180 | Above average |
| Texas | $170–$180 | Average |
| Minnesota | $168–$178 | Average |
| Washington | $168–$178 | Average |
| Missouri | $165–$175 | Average |
| Colorado | $165–$175 | Average |
| Arizona | $165–$175 | Average |
| Virginia | $162–$172 | Average |
| North Carolina | $160–$170 | Average |
| Tennessee | $160–$170 | Average |
| Oregon | $160–$170 | Average |
| Florida | $158–$168 | Average |
| Georgia | $158–$168 | Average |
| South Carolina | $155–$165 | Average |
| Kentucky | $155–$165 | Average |
| Nevada | $155–$165 | Average |
| Alabama | $152–$162 | Below average |
| Alaska | $140–$150 | Below average |
| Hawaii | $140–$150 | Below average |
These are yard rates for a vehicle delivered complete, and they move with the global metal market. A car picked up free from your driveway nets differently than one you haul in yourself, and parts value sits on top of the scrap figure rather than inside it.
What Junk Cars Sell For, by Condition
Four condition grades, split by vehicle class. Trucks and SUVs sit above cars throughout because they carry more weight and stronger parts demand.
Every grade assumes the catalytic converter, wheels and battery are still fitted. A car stripped of those drops toward the bottom of its grade regardless of how well it runs. Grade A and B figures are open-ended upward because a complete running vehicle is valued against resale as well as parts.
What counts as a junk car?
Broader than most people assume. You don't need a rusted shell on blocks. We buy junk cars for cash whenever the vehicle:
Doesn't start or won't stay running
Dead battery, seized engine, or starts and stalls. Non-runners are a large share of what we buy.
Failed inspection or emissions
A car that can't pass and isn't worth the repairs it would take to pass.
Needs a repair that costs more than it's worth
Engine, transmission, or a bill from the shop that doesn't make sense against the car's value.
Was declared a total loss
Insurance write-offs, whether you kept the car after the claim or the claim was never filed.
Has high mileage and no private-sale value
Runs fine, but the odometer means nobody is paying real money for it.
Has been sitting long enough that the registration lapsed
Flat tires, expired tags, and a dead battery are normal. We come to it.
Runs fine but nobody wants it
An old vehicle a dealer won't take on trade. A running car can still be a junk car in economic terms if its retail value is below what a dismantler will pay for its parts.
What We Buy
We buy junk cars of nearly every description — cars, trucks, SUVs, vans and minivans, and motorcycles or commercial vehicles in some areas. Find your situation below.
Cars that won't start
Dead, seized or stalling. You don't need to get it running to sell it.
Read more →Blown engines and failed transmissions
When the repair estimate is bigger than the car, the parts still carry value.
Read more →Totaled and insurance write-offs
What a total-loss vehicle is worth once the insurer is done with it.
Read more →Flood and water damaged cars
Water in the cabin or engine doesn't stop a sale. It changes how the car is priced.
Read more →Frame and structural damage
Bent frames and collision damage that make the car uneconomic to repair.
Read more →Salvage and rebuilt title vehicles
A branded title limits resale, not scrap and parts value.
Read more →Cars with the catalytic converter stolen
Still sellable. Here is what the missing converter does to the number.
Read more →High mileage vehicles
Two hundred thousand miles and counting. What that does and doesn't change.
Read more →No title
Workable in most states with registration and ID. State-by-state rules and what to expect.
Read more →No keys, expired registration or other paperwork gaps
What you actually need on pickup day, and what to do when something is missing.
Read more →Old, unwanted or abandoned vehicles
Cars in a relative's name, left on your property, or simply not worth keeping.
Read more →Trucks, SUVs and vans
Heavier vehicles bring higher offers because of parts demand and curb weight.
Read more →How It Works
Four steps, and the only one that takes any effort is the first.
- 1
Tell us about the vehicle
Year, make, model, mileage, condition, and whether it runs. Be accurate — the offer is based on what you describe, and a surprise at pickup means renegotiating in your driveway, which nobody enjoys.
- 2
Get your offer
A real number, not a range, priced on the parts, converter and scrap rates where the car actually is.
- 3
Schedule collection
Often same or next day depending on your area. Pick a time that works and we send a truck.
- 4
Get paid at pickup
Our driver confirms the vehicle matches the description, you sign the paperwork, you get paid, the car goes on the flatbed.
What You'll Need
Requirements vary by state, and we confirm yours before a driver is dispatched.
- Photo ID
- A government-issued ID matching the name on the ownership document.
- The title, if you have it
- If you don't, that's usually workable. Licensed dismantlers can typically take a vehicle on a salvage or junking certificate — see selling a junk car without a title for how it works in your state.
- Registration, current or expired
- Serves as evidence of ownership in most states, and is what we use in place of a title where the state allows it.
- A lien release, if a loan was ever recorded
- You cannot sell a vehicle with an open lien against the VIN, even for scrap. Even a long-paid-off loan can leave a lien on record; one call to the lender clears it in writing.
- Odometer disclosure
- Required on vehicles under a certain age in most states. Our driver brings the form.
Free towing, always
Towing is included in every offer. It isn't deducted, and there's no separate charge — the number we quote is the number you're paid.
The car doesn't need to run, roll, or have keys. What our driver needs is access for a flatbed or wheel-lift. If the vehicle is in a garage, blocked in by other cars, on a steep unpaved drive, or in a tight alley, mention it when you get your quote so we send the right truck.
Selling junk cars for cash vs the alternatives
Worth being straight about the alternatives, because for some cars one of them is the better trade.
A private sale gets you more money if the car runs and has real retail value. It also means listing it, fielding messages, no-shows, test drives, and handling the title transfer yourself. Worth it above a certain value threshold; below that, the effort outweighs the difference.
A trade-in is the easiest path if you're buying another car — but dealers rarely give meaningful allowance for a non-running or high-mileage vehicle, and sometimes value it at zero because they'd have to dispose of it themselves.
Donation gets you a tax deduction rather than cash. Your deduction is generally limited to what the charity actually sells the vehicle for, which for a junk car is often modest. It only comes out ahead if you itemize and are in a high bracket.
Taking it to a scrapyard yourself can net slightly more per ton, since you're cutting out the middle. You'll need to get it there, which for a non-running car means paying for a tow, and you'll be quoted on weight rather than parts value.
What happens to your car afterwards
It goes to a licensed dismantler or auto recycler. Fluids are drained and disposed of under environmental regulations, the battery, tires and catalytic converter are removed, reusable parts are inventoried and sold, and the remaining hulk is crushed and shredded for scrap steel.
Depending on your state, the VIN is retired via a certificate of destruction or junking certificate, which means the vehicle can never be titled for road use again. The full process, from arrival at the yard to the shredder, is on how junk cars are recycled.
Where we buy
We buy junk cars through a network of licensed local buyers across the country, which is why the offer is priced on your state's scrap rates and your area's parts demand rather than a national average.
Find your area on our junk car buyer locations page, or just get a quote — we'll tell you straight away whether we cover you.
Cash for Junk Cars: Common Questions
How much cash can I get for my junk car?
Most fall between low three figures and low four figures, driven mainly by the catalytic converter, parts demand for your model, current scrap metal prices, and how complete the vehicle is.
Do you buy cars that don't run?
Yes. Non-running vehicles are a large share of what we buy, and free towing is included.
Can I sell my junk car without a title?
In most states, yes. Licensed dismantlers can typically acquire a vehicle using a salvage or junking certificate rather than a standard title transfer. A few states are stricter.
Is towing really free?
Yes. It's included in the offer, not deducted from it. The number we quote is what you're paid.
How do I get paid?
At pickup, once the driver has confirmed the vehicle matches the description and the paperwork is signed.
How fast can you pick it up?
Often the same or next day, depending on your area and driver availability.
Do I need to be there for the pickup?
Usually yes, since the paperwork needs signing and payment needs handing over. Some situations can be arranged differently — ask when you book.
Should I junk my car or try to sell it privately?
If it runs and has genuine retail value, a private sale usually nets more. If it doesn't run, needs a repair worth more than the car, or has been sitting for years, junking it is normally the better trade once you account for the effort.
Should I remove parts before selling?
No. A stripped car is worth substantially less, and the reduction is usually more than the parts fetch. Leave the catalytic converter, battery and wheels on the vehicle.
What if I still owe money on the car?
You'll need a lien release from the lender before it can be sold, even for scrap.
What do I do about my plates and insurance?
Cancel insurance after the car is collected, not before. Some states want the plates surrendered and a release of liability filed — check your state's rules.
Will you buy a car that's been sitting for years?
Yes. Long-dormant vehicles are common. Flat tires, a dead battery, or being partly buried in a hedge aren't problems.
Do you buy trucks, SUVs and vans?
Yes, and trucks in particular often bring higher offers because of parts demand and curb weight.
Get cash for your junk car
Give us the year, make, model and condition, and we'll give you a number. If you like it, we'll come get it and pay you. If you don't, no obligation and no follow-up pressure.
Get My Free Offer → Free towing · No obligation · Cash at pickup